หมวดหมู่ของบทความนี้จะเกี่ยวกับยา ta 0.1 หากคุณกำลังมองหายา ta 0.1มาเรียนรู้เกี่ยวกับหัวข้อยา ta 0.1ในโพสต์Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclassนี้.

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ที่เว็บไซต์BirthYouInLoveคุณสามารถเพิ่มข้อมูลอื่น ๆ นอกเหนือจากยา ta 0.1เพื่อข้อมูลเชิงลึกที่มีคุณค่ามากขึ้นสำหรับคุณ ที่เว็บไซต์Birth You In Love เราอัปเดตข้อมูลใหม่และถูกต้องสำหรับผู้ใช้อย่างต่อเนื่อง, ด้วยความตั้งใจที่จะช่วยให้คุณมีข้อมูลที่สมบูรณ์ที่สุด ช่วยให้คุณได้รับข้อมูลที่สมบูรณ์ที่สุดบนอินเทอร์เน็ต.

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เคมีของน้ำในตู้ปลาปลูกเป็นหนึ่งในหัวข้อที่ซับซ้อนที่สุดใน Aquascaping! Tommy จะแจกแจงพารามิเตอร์น้ำและการทดสอบน้ำทั้งหมด ลงลึกถึงความหมายและผลกระทบต่อแท้งก์น้ำและคุณภาพน้ำของคุณอย่างไร สนุกกับ Green Aqua Masterclass กับ Tommy! ———- บท 00:00 บทนำ 01:09 ประเภทการทดสอบ 02:30 ทดสอบเมื่อใด 10:01 พารามิเตอร์น้ำในอุดมคติ 23:13 ทำไมคุณไม่ควรทดสอบ 26:14 การวัดถังของเรา 30:11 บทสรุป 32:40 อัตราส่วนสารอาหาร 34:28 สรุป ———- อย่าลืมติดตามเรา ช่องใหม่ GREEN AQUA MERCH พร้อมใช้งาน: เป็นสมาชิกช่อง เข้าร่วมกับเรา คลิกระฆังเพื่อรับการแจ้งเตือนการอัปเดตใหม่ อย่าลังเลที่จะแสดงความคิดเห็นและให้ข้อเสนอแนะกับเรา เรายินดีที่จะตอบคำถามของคุณ ———- วิดีโอ AQUASCAPING เพิ่มเติมโดย GREEN AQUA AQUASCAPING – วิดีโอภาพยนตร์: AQUASCAPING – คู่มือและวิดีโอแนะนำ: AQUASCAPING – วิดีโอบำรุงรักษา: โชว์รูม GREEN AQUA – ร้าน Aquascaping เว็บไซต์: INSTAGRAM: FACEBOOK: FLICKR: TWITTER: DISCORD: ———- วิดีโอนี้จัดทำขึ้นโดยความร่วมมือกับ OASE Chihiros Dennerle ——— ข้อจำกัดความรับผิดชอบเกี่ยวกับวิดีโอและอุปกรณ์เสียงของเรา: รายการของเรามีลิงค์พันธมิตร ซึ่งหมายความว่าเราจะได้รับค่าคอมมิชชั่นเล็กน้อยหากคุณคลิกลิงก์ผลิตภัณฑ์ใดลิงก์หนึ่ง สิ่งนี้ช่วยสนับสนุนช่องและทำให้เราทำวิดีโอแบบนี้ต่อไปได้ ขอบคุณสำหรับการสนับสนุนของคุณ! ——— CREW Camera Operators: Csaba Viczián, Áron Tamaskó Post-Production: Péter Hajdu, Áron Tamaskó Social media: Viktor Lantos Subtitles: Tamás Demeter กราฟิก การตัดต่อ และการไล่ระดับสีใน DaVinci Resolve Studio 17 – ——— เครื่องมือที่เราชื่นชอบ: TUBEBUDDY: MORNINGFAME: GENIUSLINK: ———- เพลงที่ได้รับอนุญาตผ่าน EPIDEMIC SOUND #greenaqua #aquascaping #watertest

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Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclass
Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclass

นอกจากการดูเนื้อหาของบทความนี้แล้ว Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclass คุณสามารถค้นพบข้อมูลเพิ่มเติมได้ที่ด้านล่าง

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#Planted #Aquarium #WATER #PARAMETERS #amp #TESTING #Masterclass.

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Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclass.

ยา ta 0.1.

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33 thoughts on “Planted Aquarium WATER PARAMETERS & TESTING Masterclass | สรุปเนื้อหาที่เกี่ยวข้องยา ta 0.1ที่สมบูรณ์ที่สุด

  1. Rav Scape says:

    A very detailed guide. Whole Green Aqua good job. 4 years ago my adventure with aquascaping started from your films. When I started, my knowledge was based on my childhood memories, i.e. cryptocoryne gravel and guppy. Now I build a few tanks a year and I want to say Thank you guys for knowledge end inspiration.❤

  2. Christopher Fassett says:

    Great video, but a few notes:

    Not everywhere has hard tap water, I've lived somewhere that did (18 dGH, 15 dKH, 370-420 TDS), but right now, where I live, I have 2* dGH, 0 dKH, and 37 TDS. Literally, the only thing in my water is the slaked/hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) that my water company uses to avoid plumbing corrosion. There's no magnesium, so the GH test actually isn't accurate since they generally only measure calcium, and they assume a certain ratio (3:1), the GH test reads artificially high. The pH out of my tap is 8.7-9.5, but the hydroxide is very unstable and offgasses within an hour or two, and my pH afterward is usually around 6.1. I don't bother aging the water. It really doesn't affect anything except ammonia toxicity, so I dose Prime a little heavy, no other adjustments for the pH. I use a Python to fill my tanks directly and keep many sensitive fish and shrimp with no issues. I do use a GH booster in CO²-injected tanks or shrimp tanks. It's usually not a big deal in "low-tech" tanks.

    Anyways, one correction: KH doesn't affect how quickly the pH drops from CO² (carbonic acid), it only affects the starting point. A 1-point drop is still ~30 ppm CO², the difference is, are you starting from say 6.8 and dropping you 5.8, or are you starting at say 8.0 and dropping to 7.0? The only case where KH might affect the pH drop is when there are non-carbonitic sources of alkalinity that are mucking up the test. This isn't really a concern below about 5-10 dKH because other sources of alkalinity would be quickly destabilized and offgass (like the hydroxide in my tap water).

    Things get a little wonky when KH truly hits absolute 0 and other salts/TDS are low enough, pH meters start reading strange, etc. That's not because the pH is actually fluctuating but rather it's a deficiency in our ability to measure the pH. Measuring the pH of water with no alkalinity often requires lab-grade equipment, the pH pen or test simply becomes unreliable.

    Running at 0 dKH, but with enough other salts/TDS that my pH meter functions, I have one tank running at 6.1 offgassed, 5.0 with CO². I have another tank running at 5.4 offgassed, 4.2 with CO² (and Neocaridina, Caridina, Boraras brigittae, Microdevario kubotai, and Sundadanio goblinus are all happy and breeding/spawning). That tank used to run with crushed coral in the filter and ran at 7.8 offgassed, and 7.6 during the day (with the same CO² settings, nothing changed on the regulator).

    The big thing a lot of purple don't understand is that CO² injection is linear, but we're measuring it with pH, which is logarithmic. So the first 50% pH drop is only 25% of the target CO². The first 0.8 and 0.9 drop are only 63% and 79% of the 30 ppm CO² target. So people will say that it's really hard to get that last 0.1 or 0.2 drop. That's because if you're at a 0.8 drop, you still need to increase the CO² flow by 1.5x of what it already is, because you're only 2/3 of the way to the target.

    Anyways, hope that's helpful

    As always, wonderful video, you guys are hands-down the best aquascaping channel on YouTube and such a great resource. I may have had a nitpick or two with the hardness/pH/CO² etc. thing but the final conclusion is spot-on for people who have gone into a thing deliberately with good info.

    Often I help people who have no idea what's going on, are just getting into live plants as an afterthought, etc, and in that case I often recommend switching (or starting) fertilization, adjusting to testing, etc, but that's not the same thing as a deliberate scape.

    Wonderful stuff

  3. Ken Crawford says:

    Thank you! I am starting this journey coming from Hydroponics and I happy to see there is some crossover of information about water parameters that cause nutrient lockout similar to the hydroponics root zone.

  4. Rick Sanchez C137 says:

    I disagree with A LOT of what he said. Like why bother testing kH? Because once you know your kH, which, unless you mess with RO water, will be pretty much constant from tap, you will be extrapolating your CO2 ppm. Saltwater aquarists obsess with measurments. Sometimes it becomes more about the sump and controller and automation than composition in the display. So.. measure if you feel like it. Knowing the stats of your setup and seeing them change as you tweek the system is one of more satisfying parts for more technical people. Notice how aquascaping is male dominant? Guess why..

  5. MT M says:

    Hi , if I may have 1 question. I bought JBL Mg/Ca Test for salt water by mistake. Can I use some bottles or some content of it somehow for fresh water, delute it somehow to use it for Mg testing let's say ? Or there is just throw it away. I can't return it to the shop because I've already opened bottles before I noticed my mistake. Thx

  6. Dyptorden says:

    Hi Green Aqua! Are you sure about the information about Iron at 21:45 ? You are saying that for iron we should have 0.05-0.1 ppm. But on JBL's Iron drop test, (according to the green bar) should have values between 0.1 and 0.4.
    Also I would like to know your opinion (as there's nothing about it in the clip) about the importance of achieving the Redfield ratio – especially for tanks that don't do well.

  7. Mosher says:

    Reducing my 600 TDS water to 150-200 should improve colour of my rotalas and ludwigia?30l nano with 20W and above lightning.Big change will be in the future.Removing glass lily pipes to neo flow set for better water and co2 movement.

  8. Miguel Cascan says:

    You should become a Teacher, dry stuff and stuff the most people fear because they think they would not understand it anyway was explained as simple as it can be.

    The most importend thing i would take out of this is the good old and often heared sentence "never change a running system"

  9. Gino Preti says:

    When you were talking about TDS you say ppm. I ask because in other videos Bazal spoke of micro siemens and on the GH + jar the dose to reach a certain micro siemens value is indicated. So based on the TDS, should I check the ppm or micro siemens?

  10. Lukáš Talich says:

    You say we should weekly add 25PPM of K. When dosing Seachem Fourish Potassium into 300 liter aquarium, does that mean I should add 165ml per week? (On the bottle it says when I want to add 1PPM (1mg/l) then I need to add 2,2ml per 100liters, so 25*2,2*3 = 165ml) That looks like a lot. The potassium content in my complete fertilizer does not even come close to such numbers… do you really drop the whole bottle into your aquarium or my calculation is completely wrong? Thank you.

  11. Denza Denzanovic says:

    Nice video guys! Pleasure to watch it! I'm sure its gonna help a lot of people!
    I would have a few questions regarding this (and "critics" if I can call it like that lol).
    – Your thoughts on PPS pro method? It hits "lowest" suggested concentrations from EI if I got it correctly.
    – Doesnt ADA lean method works only with ADA soil and powersand? I read on several places that this kind of fert scheme starts to "crash" once soil "wears out". Never used it, so I have no clue about that.
    – Dont you think that ratios do matter at some point simply because some elements react and percipitate? For example you cant keep Fe:Mn ratio at 1:1 if you know what I mean 😀
    – "Critics" would be on pH range/fertilization. Some people may find problems with iron deficiency if their fertilizer is using EDTA chelating agent. You are using DTPA in your mixes (I think?). So, basically, pH higher than 6.5 will really lower your iron fertilizer efficiency if you have EDTA in it. Same goes for your mix at pH higher than 7. If you have pH 7.5, your chelate will "break down" quick and plants wont have enough time to use it. Of course, you got CO2 (as most people who prefer plant based aquariums) so you're never going to have this issues. I didn't know how to call these few lines of text, thats why I said "critics" lol

    Anyways, awesome video, awesome info! Keep it up!

  12. Juan Arbeláez says:

    Hey there! greattings from Colombia; I have a little question that only you guys can answer:
    If I use tap water, and with the soil and CO2 gets the PH to 6.7, and every time I made a water change, the normal range of ph water is 7.5 (tap water) is it any problem whit that? should I use a buffer to get a 6.7 PH to introduce it in the tank? or can I mix the 7.5 ph water whit the 6.7 ph water in the tank whit no problem?
    I love you guys! <3

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